Easy Riding, Central Highlands

I was told it is worth the expense of doing a trip with the Easy Riders, a Dalat-based motorcycle group that takes tourist off the beaten track in the Central Highlands. I was also told you don't need to find them, they will find you. And so it was that 10 steps away from my hotel Peter, a 50-something with salt and pepper hair and skin leathery from years in the sun, made his proposal. It was more of a hard sell really, as most things are in Vietnam and the whole negotiation process was quite exhausting. But Peter convinced me, even though it was very expensive for Vietnam, and at 7 a.m. he strapped my luggage to the back of his pimped out 125cc motorbike (the largest size allowed in Vietnam), gave me a helmet 3 sizes too big, and we were off. Along the way I learned how everything is made from bricks to silk, woven baskets to rubber. I saw small farms growing pineapple plants, avocado and mango trees, pepper vines, and mushroom bags. Often Peter stops in the middle of nowhere and declares it's time for me to get some exercise and he takes off down the road. I discovered that my need for exercise really meant it was time for his cigarette break. Peter took me to some places that clearly don't see many tourists. At one waterfall I seemed to be the main attraction. One by one, a group needed to pose with me on a rocky outcropping, a bit too close to the waterfall. Eating with peter was always an adventure. Even though there was only two of us, he would order enough to feed eight. One time for lunch we had a giant bowl of rice, pork in caramel sauce, spicy fish, stir-fried cabbage, french fries, beef and cauliflower, and spring rolls. As soon as they stopped bringing food over, this exchange always took place. Me: "I hope you're hungry." Peter: "No!" He assured me, when we left more than half of the food uneaten, that the pigs would be eating well. After three days of rolling around Peter dropped me off in Nha Trang and I took the night train to Hoi An.

In Hoi An, a romantic seaside town, apparently I forgot I am unemployed. Hoi An is known as the place to have clothes made. It's amazing how fast they can whip up an outfit. It took one day to make 2 shirts, a silk blouse, capri pants, and two pairs of shoes, all for $66. There are a lot a lot of art galleries and good gifts and I book my onward train ticket as soon as possible.

For photos of the Central Highlands, click here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39463330@N00/sets/72057594112032969/
For photos of Hue, click here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39463330@N00/sets/72057594113808631/